全网热议的“费尔岛”毛衣，为何能成为今年冬季的“顶流”?

从苏格兰渔民的保暖帽到2024年T台上的奢华单品，费尔岛针织凭借其独特的“OXO”图案和丰富的色彩，成为跨越百年的时尚经典。无论是皇室成员还是好莱坞明星，都难以抵挡它的魅力。

（图源：pixabay）双语原文Which fashion item is as beloved by members of the royal family as it is by JLo? Or as relevant on the runways of 2024 as in the knitting catalogs of 1960? The answer is surprisingly festive.哪种时尚单品既受到皇室成员和詹妮弗·洛佩兹的喜爱，又能在2024年的T台上与1960年代的编织目录中同样引人注目？答案出人意料地充满节日气氛。The Fair Isle knit, a two-stranded knitting tradition originating off the coast of Scotland, has been a wardrobe staple for well over 100 years — keeping everyone from 18th century fisherman to Mick Jagger warm.费尔岛针织（Fair Isle knit），这种源自苏格兰海岸的双股编织传统，已有超过100年的历史，从18世纪的渔民到米克·贾格尔，它一直是衣橱中的保暖必备品。In the last five years, luxury brands Ralph Lauren, Thom Browne, Chanel, Celine, Balenciaga, Raf Simons, Versace and Dries van Noten have all sent their renditions of the heritage knit down the catwalk.在过去的五年里，拉夫·劳伦、汤姆·布朗、香奈儿、赛琳、巴黎世家、拉夫·西蒙斯、范思哲和德里斯·范诺顿等奢侈品牌都曾将他们对传统编织的诠释带到T台上。London-based designer Molly Goddard has even made the pattern something of an unofficial signature, making sure to pair a structured Fair Isle-style knit with a flouncy, tulle skirt in almost every collection. In short, it has become a winter classic that seems perpetually in vogue.伦敦设计师莫莉·戈达德甚至将这种图案打造成了一种非官方的标志，几乎在每一季的设计中都会搭配结构感十足的费尔岛风格编织和飘逸的塔夫绸裙。简而言之，它已成为一种似乎永远流行的冬季经典。Rom-com leading man, Adam Brody, recently wore a red and white version on the cover of Stylist magazine; while Katie Holmes was snapped running errands in an old beige Fair Isle favorite from 2022.浪漫喜剧男主角亚当·布罗迪最近在《Stylist》杂志封面上穿着一件红白相间的费尔岛针织衫；而凯蒂·霍尔姆斯则在2022年穿着一件旧的米色费尔岛针织衫外出办事时被拍到。For those in the northern hemisphere, it"s appropriate to shrug on as soon as the nights draw in right until sweater weather deteriorates.对于北半球的人们来说，这种针织衫适合从夜晚降临一直穿到毛衣季节结束。That being said, even in season-less Los Angeles, stars like Hailey Bieber have been seen in the cozy Fair Isle knits grabbing coffees.即便是在无季节之分的洛杉矶，像海莉·比伯这样的明星也被拍到穿着舒适的费尔岛针织衫去买咖啡。Taking its name from the island of Fair Isle — part of the Shetland archipelago about 100 miles off the northeastern coast of Scotland — the knitting technique first began in fisherman"s hats during the 18th and 19th century (our beloved sweaters came much later).费尔岛针织的名字来源于费尔岛——位于苏格兰东北海岸约100英里处的设得兰群岛的一部分。这种编织技术最初始于18世纪和19世纪的渔夫帽（我们喜爱的针织衫则是在此之后很久才出现的）。The two strand pattern was not only artistic, but made the tall, conical shaped caps extra warm by doubling the textile mass. They often featured a knitted interior lining, too.双股图案不仅具有艺术性，还通过增加纺织品的厚度使高而尖的帽子更加保暖。它们通常还配有针织的内衬。The typical Fair Isle knit follows an "OXO" pattern, where a geometric "O" is followed by an "X" and repeated throughout the garment.典型的费尔岛针织遵循“OXO”图案，即几何形状的“O”后面跟着“X”，并在整件衣物上重复。Some knitters fill the "O" shape with symbols such as crosses, snowflakes, or a central dot called a "goose"s eye". But what set them apart from other fishing workwear was the vivid color palette.一些编织者会在“O”形状中填充符号，如十字、雪花或称为“鹅眼”的中心点。但与其他渔夫工作服不同的是，它们拥有鲜艳的色彩。"They used blue, red, yellow, a natural white and a natural brown, called Shetland black," said Dr. Carol Christiansen, the curator and community museums officer at the Shetland Textile Museum — which has an expansive collection of pieces dating as far back as 1850.设得兰纺织博物馆的策展人和社区博物馆官员卡罗尔·克里斯蒂安森博士说：“他们使用了蓝色、红色、黄色、天然白色和被称为设得兰黑色的天然棕色。”该博物馆收藏了大量可追溯至1850年的作品。"The idea was that the skippers wore brighter colors so they were more easily seen, either from the land or by other boats."“船长们穿着更鲜艳的颜色，这样他们更容易被看到，无论是从陆地上还是其他船只上。”But how did functional workwear become one of fashion"s most enduring designs? "They started to become a tourist item," said Dr. Christensen in a phone interview.但这种功能性的工作服是如何成为时尚界最持久的设计之一的呢？克里斯蒂安森博士在电话采访中表示：“它们开始成为一种旅游商品。”In the 19th century, fishermen from Norway and the Netherlands came to the area to work and catch herring — a lucrative summer business — in Shetland"s waters.19世纪，来自挪威和荷兰的渔民来到设得兰群岛工作并捕捞鲱鱼——这是夏季的一项有利可图的生意。The funny little colorful hats worn by the Fair Isle workers were seen as novel, charming and the perfect souvenir for the visiting Dutch fishermen to bring home.费尔岛工人佩戴的这些有趣的小彩色帽子被视为新奇、迷人，是荷兰渔民带回家的完美纪念品。By 1870, Shetland had a regular boat and postal service, which boosted the scale of trade and tourism.到1870年，设得兰群岛有了定期船只和邮政服务，这促进了贸易和旅游业的发展。It soon became a holiday destination for keen huntsmen or bird shooters who, just like the Dutch skippers, could take a piece of Fair Isle back with them.它很快成为猎人和鸟类射击爱好者的度假胜地，就像荷兰船长一样，他们可以带回一件费尔岛的纪念品。As demand grew, so did the trade. Suddenly the pattern was available in stockings, gloves, scarves and finally, pullovers.随着需求的增加，贸易也随之扩大。突然间，这种图案出现在袜子、手套、围巾，最终还有套头衫上。The look shot to popularity in the 1920s, when a portrait of the then-Prince Edward by Sir Henry Lander was painted in 1923 strengthened the design"s association with sportsmanship.这种风格在1920年代迅速流行起来，当时1923年由亨利·兰德爵士为当时的爱德华王子绘制的肖像加强了这种设计与运动精神的联系。Rendered fresh off the golf course in a muted Fair Isle v-neck and tartan flat cap, the British royal helped catapult the style into the mainstream. It came just as women"s styles were changing, too.这位英国皇室成员在高尔夫球场外穿着一件低调的费尔岛V领衫和格子平顶帽，帮助这种风格进入了主流。与此同时，女性的时尚风格也在发生变化。Looser, more comfortable garments were eclipsing the restrictive nature of corsets and petticoats thanks to designers such as Paul Poiret and Gabrielle Chanel (the latter was a fan of Fair Isle herself, photographed in a collared cardigan with the distinctive "OXO" pattern in 1910).由于设计师如保罗·波烈和加布里埃尔·香奈儿的推动，宽松、舒适的服装逐渐取代了束腰和裙撑的束缚（后者本人也是费尔岛针织的爱好者，1910年她被拍到穿着一件带有“OXO”图案的立领开襟羊毛衫）。Women were wearing similar cardigans, pullovers — often knitted by themselves, if couture was out of reach — and pleated knee-length skirts.女性开始穿着类似的羊毛衫、套头衫——如果买不起高级时装，她们通常会自己编织——以及褶皱的及膝裙。Fair Isle quickly morphed into a symbol of family when in the 1940s and 50s it became a lynchpin of women"s knitting pattern books.在1940年代和50年代，费尔岛针织成为女性编织图案书中的核心，迅速演变为家庭的象征。Mothers all over the UK would not only knit themselves a piece, but their husband and, using the leftover yarn, their children, too.英国各地的母亲们不仅为自己编织，还为丈夫和孩子们编织，利用剩余的毛线。Suddenly entire nuclear family units were dressed in matching Fair Isle — making it a visual shorthand for ideas of tradition, convention and wholesome living that modern designers still use to evoke nostalgia today.突然间，整个核心家庭都穿着相配的费尔岛针织衫——这成为传统、习俗和健康生活的视觉速记，现代设计师至今仍在使用这种图案来唤起怀旧之情。"I think anything with a sense of place and time gives people a sense of belonging," said senior knitwear designer Emma Brooks for British label Toast in an interview via Zoom.英国品牌Toast的高级针织设计师艾玛·布鲁克斯在Zoom采访中表示：“我认为任何带有地点和时间感的东西都能让人们产生归属感。”Fair Isle knits are a consistent pillar of the brand"s Fall-Winter collections, who have a partnership with a specialist factory in Scotland (though not in Shetland) and often work with local Scottish yarn spinners.费尔岛针织是该品牌秋冬系列中的常驻元素，他们与苏格兰的一家专业工厂（尽管不在设得兰）有合作关系，并经常与当地的苏格兰纱线制造商合作。"There"s something about a knitted jumper and a motif around the yoke that is flattering. It"s a pop of color without being too overwhelming, I think that taps into a lot of people"s way of dressing."“针织毛衣和领口周围的图案有一种讨人喜欢的魅力。它是一种色彩的点缀，但不会过于抢眼，我认为这符合许多人的穿衣方式。”While the design has never been officially trademarked, there is a heritage quality to a traditional Fair Isle that is hard to replicate — though it is often attempted.尽管这种设计从未正式注册商标，但传统的费尔岛针织具有一种难以复制的文化遗产品质——尽管许多人试图模仿。In 2015, Chanel revived their affiliation with the pattern in a Metier d"Arts collection in Rome (a collection dedicated to celebrating the craftwork of their ateliers).2015年，香奈儿在罗马的Metier d’Arts系列中重新与这种图案建立了联系（该系列旨在庆祝其工作室的手工艺）。The knits ironically sparked controversy after independent Shetland label Mati Ventrillon claimed Chanel copied her designs after the fashion house visited her studio as research. Chanel apologized and credited Ventrillon in subsequent marketing language promoting the show.这些针织品引发了争议，独立设得兰品牌Mati Ventrillon声称香奈儿抄袭了她的设计，因为时尚屋在研究时曾访问过她的工作室。香奈儿随后道歉，并在后续的营销语言中提到了Ventrillon。Brooks is keenly aware of the cultural sensitivity of the craft, and even visited Dr. Christiansen at the Shetland Textile Museum in 2019 to look for design inspiration for Toast"s next collection, made with Shetland yarn.布鲁克斯对这种手工艺的文化敏感性非常了解，她甚至在2019年访问了设得兰纺织博物馆的克里斯蒂安森博士，寻找Toast下一季系列的设计灵感，该系列使用设得兰毛线制作。"It"s important to be sensitive to the fact that certain motifs are very traditional from a particular regional area," said Brooks.布鲁克斯说：“重要的是要敏感地意识到某些图案在特定地区非常传统。”"What surprised me about the (Shetland Textile archive) was the breadth in terms of color palettes.她对设得兰纺织档案馆的色彩调色板的广度感到惊讶。I think because of what you see in historical books of Fair Isle, I was expecting more muted colors.“我认为因为你在历史书上看到的费尔岛图案，我原本期待更多的柔和色彩。But there was a real expanse, and a sense of designs changing over time and (knitters mixing) tradition with a completely different style." Today, Dr. Christiansen believes trademarking the craft of Fair Isle is almost impossible. "There have been attempts, but it"s difficult since we never got as far as place designation," she said.但事实上，色彩非常丰富，设计随着时间的推移而变化，编织者将传统与完全不同的风格结合在一起。”今天，克里斯蒂安森博士认为，费尔岛手工艺几乎不可能注册商标。“曾经有过尝试，但很难，因为我们从未达到过地理标志的程度，”她说。There"s also issues of cattle breeding, which means not all Fair Isle knits created on Shetland are made with wool from Shetland sheep.还有牛羊养殖的问题，这意味着并非所有在设得兰制作的费尔岛针织品都使用设得兰羊毛。"It gets really complicated," she said. "It"s a pity because now it"s probably too late. Fair Isle is being churned out all over the world." "That"s just how it is, it"s global fashion."“这变得非常复杂，”她说。“很遗憾，因为现在可能已经太晚了。费尔岛针织正在全球范围内大量生产。”“这就是全球时尚的样子。”END【声明】内容整理自网络，版权归原作者或平台所有，如有侵权请联系删除。欢迎大家关注我们的新媒体平台： 微信公众号：星度国际翻译微信公众号：星度外语微信公众号：星度环球文化小红书：星度环球留学小红书：星度环球语言微博：星度环球文化微博：星度国际翻译知乎：星度国际翻译今日头条：星度国际翻译今日头条：星度环球文化

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